Thursday, October 25, 2012

Jordan- Week 1 Amman

About 1 week after our reunion in DC, Anthon was told that he would be sent to Amman, Jordan, to work as a TDY facility manager at the embassy there. To our surprise, Anthon was notified about 2 days before the flight to Amman.
Because the trip was long enough (34 days) and we didn't want to be separated again, we decided that I should come with. Anthon first had to check if I could even come with him, but luckily I could. I think I had never done such a spontaneous and long trip!

That's all we had for 3,5 months... crazy!

My family never travelled that much and I think the furthest city in the east I had ever been to was Vienna. I had never been to a country, where I couldn't understand the language (except to Prague for a couple of hours), and I had never been Muslim country...so, Jordan is a whole new experience for me (and I guess for Anthon, too).

Anthon had to work during the week, but luckily he had most weekends (Fr/Sa) off, so we got to discover the area.

As soon as we exited our air plane, I felt I was in a totally different world. I felt like everybody was staring at me (and they probably did). I saw women in groups and black abayas and niqabs walking by, men in their white thobes, with their red & white keffiyeh- Yes, I was definitely not in the US anymore!
I think I stared just as much at the people, as they did at me...hahaha... but at least, I tried to make it less obvious.

We arrived late at night, so we went straight to "our" apartment. When we arrived and entered the apartment, we probably used the word "holy cow" a lot. The apartment was definitely a couple of steps up from what we are used to and I had no idea what to do with all that space. There was furniture everywhere, but it was so empty, considering that we only came with 3 suitcases, of which 1 was designated for food only.

Amman

On our first weekend here in Amman, one of Anthon's co-workers took us down town and showed us around. We first went to the Roman Theater, which was built in the 2nd century CE. It's amazing how well preserved the theater is.
The little hike and the steep stairs up to the top is definitely worth it- the view from there is amazing!

For some more information: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roman_theater_(Jordan)




 Sitting there, where the emperor once sat.


 I have to say that it was pretty steep and kind of scary climbing up!



It was pretty neat to test the acoustics. Unfortunately, blogspot.com doesn't let me upload the video with Anthon demonstrating the acoustics... :-(  It's pretty cool!



There is also a museum on the complex that houses mainly traditional clothes, jewelry, and old mosaics.








 The guys getting hungry...

The Forum right next to the theater.


We then went up to the Citadel, also called Jabal al- Qal'a. The hill as an impressive amount of ruins from all different kinds of periods (especially neolithic, Roman, Muslim). Famous is the Temple of Hercules that was built during the 2nd century AD, the Byzantine basilica from the 5-6th century and the Umayyad Mosque from the 8th century.
When I see ancient ruins, I always wish I was an archeologist. What a cool job that must be!


From the Citadel, you have an amazing view over Amman.

Isn't it amazing how tall these columns are?!? Anthon looks like a little bug in this picture.











There is also a small, but neat museum with statue heads, jewelry, oil lamps, skulls, etc that were found around Amman.









After that, we went down town and walked through the market. It was crazy busy, so I only took one picture there.



Honestly, we didn't see anything that we were interested in or that we thought our family members and friends could be interested in, so don't expect us to bring any souvenirs unless you tell us of something specific you would like from here.  ;-)
On the market, they mainly sell traditional clothing for men and women, suits, cheap shoes, fake perfume, water pipes (narghile), fruit and veggies, dried herbs and flower pedals, nuts, "interesting" candy, and stuff from China.



What we did get was some fake perfume (soooo cheap!). I only had 3 kinds of perfume that smelled like the original. But Anthon got quite a few men's perfume that smells really good and smells all day long- impressive!



For lunch, we went to a nearby restaurant, where Anthon's co-worker ordered a couple of traditional dishes for us. The food was really, really good. The lamb was soooo tender that it melt in your mouth!
Unfortunately, hygiene is a little bit different over here and water is not filtered....soooooo.....
In the evening, Anthon suddenly got really, really sick....so sick that we had to go to the ER the next morning. It was really scary to see Anthon soooo weak. Anthon felt so sick and weak that he thought he would die...
But the doctors did some magic and Anthon was soon doing better and finally recovered from his food poisoning. Since that day, the name of the dish we had "Mansaf" is a forbidden word around Anthon's presence, and every co-worker knows that.





Although Anthon normally loves trying different kinds of foods, he doesn't get very excited about eating out in Jordan anymore (unless it's a restaurant for mainly tourists) :-( 


In the evenings, we often went to the nearby mall "Taj Mall". Gerard has the best ice-cream! It was fun trying some untypical flavors like "Arabic" and "Dates".


We became addicted to their "Dark Chocolate" ice-cream. It is sooooo amazing! I've never had better, darker, creamier ice-cream like that in my life.
Anthon and I are still talking about that ice-cream 4 months later.


I forgot to mention that soon after we got to Jordan, Ramadan started. Here are some Ramadan pastries.





There is so much to tell, but I think this is enough about our first Saturday in Jordan. More adventures in the next post.





Jordan: Week 1 Jerash


On our first weekend in Jordan, we decided to spend Friday evening in Jerash. We heard that there was a big festival going on, so we took the bus up to Jerash and stayed there for a couple of hours.

Of course, the bus let us out right in front of souvenir shops. Typical Jordanian souvenir shops have a good variety of head scarves, bottles filled with sand (with your name, a camel, Petra,...), wooden boxes with mother of pearl, handbags, a few oriental clothes, and postcards.

Jerash (Gerasa) is supposedly the 2nd most famous tourist attraction in Jordan. It used to be a Greco-Roman city so there are tons of ancient ruins from the 2nd century AD. That's why the city is also called the "Pompeii of the Middle East".
It was pretty awe-inspiring to see all these ruins. The buildings and columns are soooo tall and so many stones still had so much detail carved in them.





There is an old hippodrome where horse races took place. Today, visitors can ride on horses or these wheel things around the hippodrome.



Crazy to think that all these columns were carved out. I love how you can see the detail of every hammer blow.








There were some music groups that played traditional music and danced. It was interesting to see how people could resist dancing to the beat, but people here don't just stand up and dance at concerts like Europeans/Americans do.



Holding hands with people of the same gender is pretty common here. But unfortunately not holding hands with your spouse :-(



We had read and heard good things about this Lebanese restaurant, so we decided to go there for dinner. The restaurant looked pretty fancy (and the people that went there, too), but the food was pretty affordable....and yummy! I think my favorite was the freshly baked pita bread with hummus and the lemon-mint drink that I'm now addicted to....hmmmmmm!




The best drink in the world!!! It's soooo refreshing after a long, hot day.


I was sooo tired, but so excited to try some traditional dishes. I think this was my first time eating Jordanian food.

Because we had no clue what we wanted and what was good, the waiter just ordered a couple of dishes for us. Luckily, we liked everything...except the traditional Lebanese salad "Tabbouleh", which is made of A LOT of chopped parsley and some tomatoes, mint, onions, bulgur wheat and some kind of dressing. That was just a little bit too parsley-y for us.



Anthon is always happy when he gets food :-)

After dinner, I walked around the restaurant and found the place where they bake the bread. The baker even let me come into the kitchen.




On our way back to the bus, we walked buy a souvenir shop area. Of course, everybody welcomed us there and told us that they would give us a "special price" :-)
We had some time to waste, so we went to one of the shops. I was very interested in their scarves, so the person showed us how to use them.



I'm probably not going to walk around DC like that, but I'm gonna use it in winter as a scarf...so we bought it *yeah*. I'm sooo proud of Anthon being such a great bargainer!

Anthon and I became a great bargaining team during our time there. When he bargained and I thought that something was still too much of a rip off (and the sales person would be stubborn), I started to shake my head and pretend to walk away. And there you go, they always gave in! :-D

We really enjoyed our evening walking around Jerash- what a beautiful city!
Visiting Jerash is definitely a must when you're in Jordan! ;-)